Skincare Rule #4

SKINCARE RULES This series focuses on concepts I’ve learned after 25 years of running a professional skincare practice that apply to everyone. See all our Skincare Rules on Instagram

SKINCARE RULE #4 BALANCE THE OIL

1. When oil production is high (2/3 or more of the face is actively producing excess oil each day) then you have an oily skin type. The goal is to do everything you can to calm the sebaceous glands which are responsible for secreting oil.

– To calm the sebaceous glands, use anti-seborrheic botanicals like rosemary, lemon, pine, red clover, and farnesol from the acacia tree

– Equally important is to avoid the use of drying ingredients which can stimulate the sebaceous glands which are commonly found in most retail cleanser, exfoliants, and even moisturizers like alcohol, sulfates, and petroleum and mineral oils.

– Even Benzoyl Peroxide can be drying if oil production is not high enough to handle it. There are botanical alternatives to reduce bacteria that are completely non-drying for those unable to tolerate BP

– Finally, increase the water to oil ratio by use of Hyaluronic Acid Serums and Moisturizer, increase water consumption, and avoid diuretics like caffeine and alcohol

2. Extraction, Extraction, Extraction!

                  – Oily skin types need regular extraction Facials; every 6 to 8 weeks

                  – Extraction of oil congested pores helps to balance the acid mantle, the oil

                  on the skin surface

– Regular weekly exfoliation with enzyme peels at home will also prevent dead skin cells from accumulating around the pore opening which lead to oil congestion and the formation of comedones, also known as blackheads

– If oil production is very high, the use of Salicylic Acid, a lipo-soluble acid, can become necessary, typically in daily toners, moisturizers, spot treatments, and masks

3. Supplement the acid mantle when oil production is low

– Dry skin types don’t produce enough oil naturally on their own so their skin does not have the natural protection of a healthy, intact acid mantle

– Their skin is more prone to dehydration, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and premature aging with fine lines and wrinkles

– Fortunately, facial serums and moisturizers which use high quality botanical lipids like squalane oil from the olive pit can replace your acid mantle. Squalane is very high in antioxidants while being the lightest botanical oil in skincare much like our skin’s natural sebum

The goal of Professional Skincare is to balance the oil and water; not too much or too little of one or the other. This cannot be achieved on your own at home. It requires Professional Skin Analysis, Exfoliation, Extraction, and deep hydrating methods to determine the correct course of treatment.

I love this photo because it really shows well what a healthy acid mantle looks like; radiant and glowing, not oily or dehydrated.

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